Alvord Desert Hot Springs: The Ultimate Eastern Oregon Adventure
Last summer my husband and I packed up our car and our dog and headed to the Alvord Desert Hot Springs in Eastern Oregon—and let me tell you, it’s one of the coolest places I’ve been in this state.
We soaked in the hot springs, camped on the playa under a sky full of stars, and woke up to the wild, untouched beauty of the Alvord desert.
Now I’m spilling all the details—part review, part guide—so you can plan your own trip to this unique corner of the PNW. Trust me, you’ll want to add this to your Oregon bucket list.
About Alvord Desert Hot Springs & Surrounding Area
Tucked away in southeastern Oregon, the Alvord Desert Hot Springs is nestled between the edge of the Alvord Desert, and the base of the Steens Mountain.
If you’re making your way this far east, you don’t usually visit one without the other. A soak in the hot springs goes hand in hand with a night on the playa.
And depending on the season, you may venture into the Steens Mountains for some hiking or backpacking too.
The Alvord Desert Playa
The Alvord Desert itself is a 12-mile-long, 7-mile-wide playa—a desolate dry lakebed with a cracked, salty surface that feels like something you would find in Nevada, or South America, not Oregon!
It was formed when an ancient lake evaporated thousands of years ago. It’s now a flat, expansive canvas that makes you feel small, and far away.
On a clear day, the Steens Mountains loom to the west, while the endless horizon stretches east. Watch storms form and migrate miles away, and sit in the deafening silence in the middle of the lakebed; it’s pretty trippy.
Alvord Desert Hot Springs
Now, let’s talk about why we’re all here today: the Alvord Hot Springs. This is not a spa—they’re rustic, concrete soaking tubs filled with naturally heated water that bubbles up from the earth at around 170°F before mixing with the pool water to an appropriate soaking temperature.
The Davis family privately owns the hot springs and transformed this once-free soaking spot (since the 1940s) into a maintained destination since 2013.
There are two pools: one open to the elements and another enclosed with walls to shield you from the wind. It’s basic, it’s authentic, and it’s exactly what you need after a day of desert exploration.
There is a small store/reception office, a restroom, bunkhouse, and campsites. More detail on day use, amenities, and lodging/camping below.
Land Speed Racing
The playa isn’t just for soaking and stargazing—it’s a famous land racing location. The Alvord’s smooth, hard surface, combined with no speed limits, has made it a hotspot for racing.
In 1976, Kitty O’Neil set the women’s world land speed record here, hitting 512 miles per hour 🤯 In 2019, Jessi Combs died on the playa trying to beat Kitty O’Neil, which she did at 522 mph.
Today, you might spot people testing their vehicles for the fun of it – no rules! If you’re camping on the playa, keep an eye out (especially if you have your dogs with you!)
Steens Mountains
Looming over the Alvord Playa, Steens Mountain is the desert’s backdrop. Rising to 9,733 feet, it’s Oregon’s highest point east of the Cascades. I couldn’t stop staring at its steep, jagged face, especially when the sun was beaming through the clouds (see my photo below!!)
It’s just 10 miles west of the hot springs (but feels like you can reach out and touch it) and if you’ve got time, the Steens Loop Road, which takes you to the summit (open summer to fall), offers jaw-dropping views—think alpine meadows, deep gorges, lakes, and roaming wild horses if you’re lucky.
Exploring the Steens is the perfect complement to a soak! But beware, we met a couple at the Springs who were camping up there and had to leave because the bugs were “unbearable”.
Alvord Desert Hot Springs Use Information
Since the springs are privately owned, there are entry fees and rules that need to be respected. They ask that you call before you come for availability!
Cost
Accessing the hot springs comes with a small cost, but it’s worth it. Day-use fees are typically around $10-$15 per person (prices can fluctuate, so check ahead).
If you’re staying overnight, camping starts at about $30 per night for two people, with extra folks tacking on a few bucks each. That overnight rate includes 24-hour hot spring access.
*This is not for Alvord Desert camping- playa camping is free.
Hours
The hot springs are open year-round. Day-use visitors can soak from 8 AM to 10 PM, but if you’re camping or bunking on-site, you’ve got the pools to yourself any time, day or night.
Stargazing from a steaming tub at midnight? Yes, please!
Amenities
Don’t expect nice facilites, but the basics are covered. There’s a small general store on-site with snacks, drinks (albeit a small selection), ice, and even locally sourced Alvord Ranch beef you can grill up “cowboy style.”
Restrooms and changing areas are available, and fire pits are provided for campers (assuming no fire restrictions). It’s simple but functional—just what you need in the middle of nowhere.
Rules/Etiquette
Visiting Alvord Hot Springs is a treat, but keeping it awesome for everyone means following a few rules and some unspoken etiquette. Here’s what I learned from my trip:
- Respect the Private Property Vibe: This isn’t a free-for-all public spot—it’s privately owned. Stick to designated areas (pools, campground, bunkhouses) and don’t wander onto unmarked land.
- No Glass, Please: I saw a sign by the pools—no glass allowed. Stick to cans or plastic for your drinks (yes you can have alcohol).
- Keep It Clean: Pack out everything you bring in.
- Quiet Hours: Daytime’s chill, but after 10 PM, keep the noise down, especially if you’re soaking late. If you want to be loud go to the playa 😉
- Clothing Optional, But Read the Room: The hot springs are clothing-optional. That said, it’s not a huge crowd, so gauge the scene.
- Don’t Hog the Pools: There are only two tubs, and they’re cozy, not massive.
- No Soap or Shampoo: The water’s natural and mineral-rich—adding soap messes it up and leaves it oily.
- Pets?: Pets are allowed, but if you are staying overnight at a campsite or in a bunkhouse, you have to sign their pet policy agreement. It mostly says that your dog will stay on leash and won’t be aggressive.
Hot Springs Details & My Experience
We went on a Friday in July. We pulled up to the small, run-down office building with a small desk, fridge full of beef, and a toddler sitting in a corner. The playa is said to be haunted but to be honest, this was the most eerie part of the whole experience.
The person took our payment, gave us a code to the gate (to their private road leading to the playa), and sent us on our way. I was happy to get out of there as fast as possible.
After you pay, walk a short path to the springs (obviously marked). When you arrive you will find two tubs, a bench, a small changing area and a trash can. The water was pretty clean but the facilities pretty rickety.
If the water is too hot or cold you can turn the white and black knobs to change the temperature. White is hot water and the black is coldish water.
The view from the tubs is beautiful in every direction. After we soaked, we took the private road to the playa and set up camp for the night.
My dog LOVED running around on the playa, it was clearly a novel experience for her too. We saw a handful of cars in the distance scoping out their own places to camp, but once everyone was settled we couldn’t see ANYONE else.
The playa truly feels huge. We were lucky to not have any wind that night, but we did hear coyotes in the distance. In the morning, we woke up to the most incredible sunrise and….a cow.
Yes, there was a cow just standing in the middle of the playa, it had clearly wandered off of one of the many nearby ranches. We made some coffee, and hit the road.
Getting to the Alvord Desert Hot Springs
This isn’t a quick jaunt—Alvord is remote, about 105 miles south of Burns, the nearest decent-sized town. The hot springs are about 7 hours from Portland, and 4 hours from Bend, OR.
If you’re coming from the North/West you’ll take Highway 20 to Burns. From Burns, take Highway 78 east, then turn south onto Fields-Denio Road (it’s actually called Folly Farm Road and then turns into Fields-Denio).
NOTE: I’m not sure if it was a particularly bad bug year when we went, but highway 20 and 78 were a minefield of giant bugs. Seriously, it sounded like it was hailing for multiple hours of our drive. I had never seen anything like it.
After about 41 miles on Fields-Denio Rd., you’ll see the hot springs on your left. Heads up, Fields-Denio is a mostly unpaved, county-maintained gravel road.
Coming from the south? It’s 23 miles north of Fields on the same road (Fields-Denio).
Staying Overnight
If you want to stay at hot springs overnight, you have a few options. My favorite way to stay here is to camp on the playa, but you may need to be flexible depending on the weather.
Alvord Hot Springs Camping
There are a number of campsites with picnic tables and fire pits located throughout the property.
You can bring a camper trailer or RV, even, but there are no hookups, FYI. Soaking in the pools is included in the camping fee (~$30). Book ahead of time because spots fill up!
Alvord Hot Springs Bunkhouses
If you don’t want to camp, there are bunkhouses you can rent. But fair warning, they are BASIC. But, they have electricity and heaters.
Fair warning, the couple we met in the hot springs told us there weren’t sheets on the beds. So I can’t tell you what condition these are in 🙂
Alvord Desert Camping (My Pick)
Camping on the playa is dispersed and free. This means there are no established sites, no facilities, nothing. You must bring in EVERYTHING you will need and you can camp nearly anywhere you like on the desert (see tips and warnings below).
There are a handful of entry/exit roads to the playa. The private road from the hot springs is one of the most common ways to enter the playa. However, there is a locked gate with a code. You need to go to the office to get the gate code. Drop a pin on your map when you enter so you can find your way out.
Keep your campsites spaced out from others – people go out there for solace. Don’t crowd them.
Know Before You Go (Tips and Warnings)
The Alvord desert is no joke. You need to mind the remote and rugged nature of the area, and prepare for multiple scenarios.
Entering, Exiting, and Choosing a Camp Spot
The Alvord Desert is BLM land but there are many private properties that border it, especially on the west side. Stay clear of the edges to avoid trespassing on anyone’s private property (they are serious about trespassing out here).
There are only a couple of designated entry points. The most common entry point is through the Alvord Hot Springs private road. You will need to stop at the office and pay a fee to use the road – they will give a gate code in return.
We soaked first, and if I remember correctly, we didn’t pay an additional fee for the road use – I think if you pay to soak they don’t charge you for the road.
The next most common entry point is Frog Springs, just past the hot springs. I have heard there are some undesignated entry points on the east side, but the roads are in poor/unknown conditions and require high clearance vehicles.
TIP: Pay attention to where you enter the desert. Drop a pin on your map and notice what landmarks are nearby and visible from a distance. If you’re struggling to find a road out, notice where others are entering and exiting the desert.
Most of the western edge of the desert is private land that cannot be fenced, so respect the owners and don’t camp too close to the edge.
Don’t camp near the entrances either — passing cars will make your campsite a dusty mess. And don’t camp in the center – this is where it is windiest and there is risk of getting stuck in the mud if it rains overnight.
Weather Impacts
Like I said earlier, this area is no joke. The weather can be harsh and it can change quickly. Check the weather frequently (when you have service). If rain is in the forecast, you won’t be able to camp on the playa because it gets muddy and you can get stuck.
Whether rain is planned or not, there are a few difficult-to-suss wet spots near the edges with sucking mud that you will want to look our for no matter the time of year.
Also check the wind forecast – it can get REALLY windy out on the playa. Try camping near the mountains or edges of the desert if it’s windy as these areas are more shielded. Also tie down and secure all tents and camp furniture.
Last, it can get really cold and really hot depending on the time of year. Be prepared with warm sleeping bags, shade structures, and sunscreen.
Limited Services
Burns is the last full-service town before you reach the desert and it’s 106 miles away. Stock up on anything you might need here, fill your gas tank, get extra water, etc.
About 20 miles past the hot springs is the “town” of Fields, Oregon. Here you will find a tiny gas station/restaurant with apparently incredible milkshakes (it was closed when we went). The only thing we found when we stopped here was mosquitoes. Not a soul in sight.
Despite that, this is clearly the only place the surrounding community can go for….anything. And because of that, gas is EXPENSIVE.
With only the most basic services and very little cell service, pack more supplies than you think you may need and prepare to be self-sufficient in every aspect of your travels.
Wildlife
What you WILL find out here is wildlife. Mostly cows and coyotes, some bighorn sheep and wild horses if you’re lucky, and BUGS.
Bring bug spray, bug candles, bug nets. Seriously, if you plan on camping in the Steens or stopping at random locations to explore, beware, I have never seen so many and such aggressive mosquitoes. Thankfully there weren’t many out on the playa (at least not while the sun was up).
Alvord Desert Weather
The desert’s weather swings with the seasons, and each season brings a very different experience, so timing your trip matters.
Summer at Alvord Hot Springs
Summer (July-September) is dry and hot—think 85-95°F days and 50-70°F nights. The playa’s perfect for driving, but bring shade and tons of water; it can be brutal without relief.
Fall
Fall (October-November) is my favorite—crisp 60-80°F days, 40-50°F nights, and the driest season for safe playa camping. There are fewer people and the fall foliage in the Steens is beautiful!
Spring
Spring (March-May) brings rain, with 50-60°F days and 30-45°F nights. The playa can turn muddy, so stick to the hot springs campground if it’s wet.
Winter
Winter (December-February) is cold—40-50°F days, 20-30°F nights—with occasional snow. The hot springs shine, but check road conditions; gravel stretches can get dicey.
Things to Do at the Alvord Desert
Now, there’s not much out here. Very few people, very few services, very little cell service. That being said, the activities that are out here are incredible.
Drive on the Playa!
Driving around the playa is a trip. It’s so beautiful and such a stark difference from the driving around the rest of Oregon. And as I mentioned earlier, it’s one of the few places in the United States where you can drive in any direction at any speed. Just be careful!
Soak in the Alvord Hot Springs
Of course, this is the top thing to do out here! Get your soak on, meet some other adventurers, and allow your muscles to recover from exploring the Steens!
Stargaze!!!
Did you know that southern Oregon is home to the largest Dark Sky Sanctuary in the world? Currently 2.5 million acres are within the area’s borders, and there are plans to extend it to Harney County, which is where the Alvord is.
With almost no light pollution, the Alvord’s night sky is unreal. Lay back on the playa or soak in the tub—either way, you’ll see the Milky Way like never before. Summer’s new moon is the best time to stargaze.
Camp on the Playa
Pitching a tent on that cracked desert floor is a bucket-list experience. Wind can kick up, so stake everything down and camp near the edge for some shelter.
Hike
There’s lots of hiking out here for all levels. One of the most popular hikes is Pine Creek Trail (just 2 miles from the Alvord Hot Springs). There is a parking and camping fee, which you can pay at the Alvord Hot Springs office. The hike is 5.6 miles out and back and has panoramic views of the mountains and desert.
Another popular hike is Wildhorse Lake and the Summit Hike. Both require driving the Steens Mountain Loop Road, Oregon’s highest road! Both offer incredible views, too. Swim at Wildhorse Lake, take in the views at the Summit, and look out for bighorn sheep!
If you’re up for something more challenging, Big Indian Gorge Trail is a must do. Trek 16 miles through the Steens Wilderness and feel free to camp along the way if you want to cut it in two!
Meditate/Digital Detox!
The service is spotty out here so take the opportunity to sit in silence (the playa is SO quiet) and do a digital detox.
The vastness of the playa and the hum of the desert wind made it easy to meditate and reset. Ditch the screens, soak in the stillness, and let your mind wander—it’s pure magic out here.
Wrap-Up
Visiting the Alvord Desert Hot Springs is an adventure that has stayed with me—it’s a corner of Oregon so starkly different from the city, the lush forests, and the rugged coast. Out here, it’s all cracked playa, natural springs, jagged mountains, and vast empty Basin.
With almost no light pollution, it’s one of the best places to see the stars- I’ve only seen stars like that in the Alps. The playa itself is a total trip, flat and endless.
But heads-up: weather can flip fast (summer heat, winter chill), bugs swarm in spring and summer, and remoteness means no gas or cell service for miles.
Pack smart—water, gear, patience—and it’s a special experience, hands-down. I’d argue it’s Oregon’s 8th wonder, a must-do for anyone craving something wild and rare in Oregon!
